Allowance - of a seam - What should it be?

Good Morning on this cold snowy Morning from my Kitchen here in Michigan. I hope everyone is warm, dry and safe. Hoping for all our members and family and friends in California safe, loving, warm wishes coming your way.

Seam allowances in quilting. What should it be?

In reading and researching chapters for my book, I have noticed in many for beginner guides it states to start with a 1/2 inch!!! I am not happy about this! Why? It is a very bad habit to start out with. You do not want to train yourself to be sewing a seam allowance which is most never called for in any pattern. I realize this is do to ease of getting a seam allowance that is straight and easy to work with, because it is larger. However, any pattern out there for quilting will have 1/4 inch seam allowance.

When we do a repetitive motion this is a training exercise for our brain, which becomes a habit after a while, and using a larger seam allowance for ease will create problems in the long run for you.

The best thing is to purchase a 1/4 inch guide foot for your machine, or mark your 1/4 inch space on the base plate of your machine next to your foot to line it up. Here are some tricks if you do not have a foot that is 1/4 inch wide.

Take a ruler, and place the 1/4 inch mark at your needle to measure from that point to the right of the needle, be sure your machine is set to the setting you will use when stitching, check your users manual on this topic as it is different for all machines. My needle on my Janome is center for all straight stitching, but on my brother it is to the right, and for my Singer it is to the left, therefore you will need to look at your manual, especially if you have a computerized machine, as they have many settings for straight stitches and needle placement. Make a small mark (dot) with a sharp point sharpy to mark your spot.

Once you have found your 1/4 mark place painters tape at that mark and remeasure to be sure you are exact. If you do not want tape on your base plate, you can use a perm marker to make it as well, know it will wear away and could mark your fabric as it goes through when you go off kilter. As well it could be off due to the diameter of the tip of the marker. Another option is to get bunion tape and put that on as well it is thicker and can make a "wall" like guide. Also, you can use a stack of card stock to make a rail or edge "wall" to butt your fabric against.

It is my opinion it is best to go on Amazon and purchase a 1/4 seam foot guide for your machine either low or high shank depending on the machine you are using. They are inexpensive and a gem to have in your foot stash! I think i paid no more than a few dollars for all of mine, and my New Janome came with one. You can use the marking on your plate of your machine but when you are cruising along it is easy to lose it.

See the blade to the right of the foot, that is what guides you!!! It is a thin VERY thin piece of metal and can be sharp so be careful with it, it can bend easily as well as cut you too. It is a snap on foot for low shank models, there are others out there for specific machines this is one made by Distinctive, "generic" for all low shanks and cost about $5.00 on Amazon.com. Do not invest in the big package set unless you need all those feet. Get what you need when you first start!

The second photo to left here, is a guide NOT a foot, you screw this into the base of your machine and it creates a "wall" or build up rail for your fabric to sit against. If you look close enough you will see more than the 1/4 inch seam allowance, it also has 1/2" and 5/8" those come in handy for garment sewing and a special need for a pattern if it should call for that seam allowance. This is sturdy, easy to use and affordable also. It can be removed, this one goes on my Janome and there is a special screw hole for this to go onto. It is wonderful!!! Also, you do not have to be careful with a blade on a foot with this, since it is not a foot and does not have one. But you need to keep an eye on it to be sure it is set where you want it every time you use your machine and throughout the sewing day, as vibration can loosen the screw and it will move. Also, measure your distance, do not rely on the measurement being accurate for your specific machine, they are ALL different.

For those of us who have our grandmothers older machines, this little ditty is the same as the above guide, it is just the original version, and most do not have the set screw with them when we get them. I have had many ask what this is for when they purchase an older machine, and Whala! this is a guide for seams too! You can purchase the set screw if yours is missing.

HIGH shank foot. See the piece with the number 37 on it, This is the shank portion of your foot, and it is for a HIGH shank machine. I do not have one, and do not know have a great deal of knowledge on this, but for most domestic machines this is not common unless you have a a high end machine which requires them. I know many industrial machines use these.

One thing to note. The hole in the middle of the foot is for your needle to pass through, so it is important to remember it is for STRAIGHT stitching not zig zag or any decorative stitches you will have a lot of broken needles and timing issues if you try it!

DO NOT CONFUSE this with your 1/4 inch foot. See the piece in the front of the foot that is rolling over. This is a ROLLED hem foot! it rolls the fabric for you to create a hem edge. The hole behind the "u" shape in front is for your needle to pass, so this too is NOT for all the fun stitches you have! They look similar to each other, but are very different.

Sew here is the gist, DO NOT get bad habits started by using a 1/2 inch seam in the beginning. It is a waste of TIME and MONEY for you, since your blocks will not match the patterns, and you use way more fabric up to make your blocks. PRACTICE the 1/4 inch seam, go slow and get comfortable. I do not care what the EXPERTS say on this matter, teach yourself good habits to begin with and your projects will be better for it. "For I am NO expert on any one thing, but a master of many, and I know bad habits lead to bad outcomes"! Life mantra there, print it and place it on your machine and read it every day!

That's my thoughts and edu ma cation on this topic today. Enjoy it all. Learn, practice, teach yourself all the good habits and your projects and sanity will be better for it! And of course buy my beginners guide to quilting when it comes out early 2018! It is a good little guide to have, with some great tips and such - I know shameless plug, but damn y'all I needs to sells me some books!

Peace out peoples I got snow to watch fall, blocks to make, and presents to wrap! enjoy your weekend! And Remember a quilt left unfinished is waiting to love.